Sunday, February 11, 2024

Southern Thailand Bouldering

Tonsai / Railay / Krabi




Tonsai

Temple Cave aka Boulder Cave  {Topos courtesy of Bill Bubb / Boulder Bill}

2024 Update - left to right - select classics + warmups*

1 BRAT Traverse 6b+/V4 

2 The Flash 6b/V4 (5+/V2 drop off at big stalactite*)

3 The Slash 7a/V6

4 Bar Fight 7a/V6 (6b+/V4 stand start at jug)

5 Temple Warmup 6a+/V3 (stand start Bar Fight traverse right to drop off Touchy Heely stand*)

6 Heelfight 7a+/V7

7 Haymaker 6b+/V4 (6a+/V3 stand start at jug*)

8 Track and Field 7a+/V7

9 Gaeng Tai Pla 8a/V11 (7c/V9 stand start at jug)

10 Try Hard 8a+/V12 low right start to Gaeng Tai Pla!

11 Killing Time 7b/V8

12 Touchy Heely 7a/V6 (6b+/V4 stand start at jug)

13 Monkey Business 7c/V9

14 Swedish Tiger 7b+/V8

15 Kissing Apples 7b/V8 (7a+/V7 direct variation)

16 Evanescence 6b+/V5

17 Superpons Wing 7c/V9

18 Snail House Rock 7a/V6

19 Ten Commandments 6b/V4

20 V13 start on far right traverse left into Gaeng Tai Pla!

__________________________________________

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29

30


Twisted Cave (Left/West side of the main Temple Boulder Cave)

31 Twisted Vines 6a+/V3 FA

32 Twisted Vines Traverse 6b+/V4 FA

33 "twisted roof"?

34 "twisted roof traverse"?

35 ?





















Tonsai Beach - North Boulders (Low Tide)

1 Melting Traverse 7a/V6 FA (Melting Wall Base)

2 Wat Wat 5/V1 FA? (Wat Bar)

3 Legacy V2 low drop off - V? (Legacy Restaurant)

4 legacy direct?

5

6

7

8

9

10


Tonsai Beach - South Boulders (Low Tide)

1 Tonsai Beach Boulder Arete 7a/V6

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10 traverse(s)?


Tonsai - Gibbon Roof

1 Flock of Gibbons 5+/V2 FA

2 Gibbon Traverse 6c+/V5 FA

3

4

5


Railay

Tiger Wall - Stalactite Tiger Cave

1 Stalactite Tiger 6a/V3 sit - left-to-right FA

2 Stalactite Tiger Traverse 6a/V3 sit - right-to-left FA

3

4

5


Railay-Tonsai Boulders (Low Tide)

1 Back Pocket 5+/V2 FA

2 Pocketasia Traverse 6b+/V4 FA

3 pocket face?

4 ?

5 pocket roof traverse!?

6 "railway"? pocket roof mid start!?

7 "railway direct"? pocket roof direct?

8 ?

9 ?

10 ?


Railay Beach West - North Boulders (Low Tide)

1 Prickly Pear 5+/V2 FA

2 arete?

3 slab?

4 ?

5 ?


Railay Beach West - South Boulders (Low Tide)

1 Rock Bottom 5/V1 FA

2

3

4

5


Wees Wall

Python Cave

1 Python Traverse 6c+/V5 FA

2 full python traverse!?

3 python face?

4 python cave traverse?

5 ?

Monkey Boulder

6 Alpha Monkey 6a/V3 FA

7 Monkey Tail 6a/V3 FA

8 Monkey Tail Direct 6a/V3 FA

9 Monkey Butt 5/V1 FA

10 ?

11

12

13

14

15


Railay Beach East - Muay Thai Boulder (Low Tide)

1 Rockhaus Roof 6a+/V3 FA

2 Muay Thai Roof 7a+/V7 FA

3 Jellyfish 5+/V2 FA

4 Thread Roof 6a/V3 FA

5 Corral 5+/V2 FA

6

7

8

9

10


Railay-Phra Nang Trail Boulders

1 Trailside Cave 6a+/V3 FA jug start to small stalactite - or - V4/5 to large stalactite!?

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10


Phra Nang Boulders

Phra Nang Southeast Beach

1 6a/V3 black streak - or - Dynoir 6c+/V4 FA eliminate variation dyno! or 6c/V5 sit?

2 5/V1 jug line - or - 5+/V2 dyno!

3 5+/V2 jug line

4 ?

5 ?

6 ?

7 ?

8 ?

9 ?

10 traverse(s)?

Phra Nang Southeast - The Orchasm

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

Phra Nang Northwest Beach

20 ?

21 ?

22 Phra Nang Prow 6b/V4 FA?

23 Lunasea 6b+/V4 FA

24 ?

25 "belly of the whale/magnum opus"!!??

26 ?

27 ?

28 ?

29 ?

Leaf Monkey Boulders

30 ?

31 Leaf Monkey 5+/V2 FA

32

33

34

35

36

37

38

39

40


Krabi

North Wall Bouldering

Patio Roof

1 Patio Roof 6c+/V5 FA

2 patio roof direct?

3 ?

Dragons Cave

4 "dragons teeth"?

5 "baby dragon"?

6 "dragon king direct"?

7 "dragon king"!?

8 Way of the Dragon 6a+/V4 FA (Way of the Dragon Traverse 6b/V4 start far left)

9 Dragon Fire 6b/V4 FA (Dragon Fire Traverse 6b+/V4 start far left)

10 Enter the Dragon 6a+/V3 FA

11 Dragon Tail 7a+/V7 FA

12 Dragon Eyes 6c+/V5 FA

13 "dragons cave traverse"!?

14 ?

15 ?

Shell Cave

16 ?

17 ?

18 The Eye 5/V1 FA

19 The Shell 6c+/V5 FA

20 Shell Cave 7a/V6 FA

21 Shell Game Direct 7a/V6 FA

22 Shell Game 7a+/V7 FA

23 Seashell 6a+/V3 FA

24 Seashell Direct 6a/V3 FA

Jurassic Cave

25 ?

26 ?

27 steep face!?

28 steep face into Dynosaur?

29 steep face into Jurassic Jugs?

30 steep face into Jurassic Traverse?

31 Dynosaur Roof 6c/V5 low roof start into Dynosaur! FA

32 Dynosaur 6a/V3 dyno! -or- Dynosaur Sit 6b/V4 roof start FA

33 Jurassic Cave Traverse 6c+/V5 - low roof start into jurassic traverse FA

34 Jurassic Roof 6b+/V4 low roof start into Jurassic Jugs FA

Jurassic Xmas

35 Dynosaur Jugs 6a+/V3 low right sit start jugs into dyno! FA

36 Jurassic Jugs 5/V1 low right sit start FA? -or- 4/V0 stand start jugs FA?

37 Jurassic Traverse 6a/V3 FA?

38 "from russia with love" huge overhanging stalactite!?

39 ?

Life of Leif

41 ?

42 "got the life traverse(s)"??

Rock n Roll

43 Rock n Roll Traverse 6b+/V4 FA?

Mythical Beasts

44 Mythical Beasts Traverse 6a/V3 low traverse (5+/V2 upper lip traverse) FA

45 ?


Suay Boulders

1 over the water problem 1?

2 over the water problem 2?

3 over the water problem 3?

4 over the water problem 4?

5 over the water problem 5? - traverse??

Dojo Cave aka The Dojo

6 far left up problem?

7 far left traverse start?

8 Dojo Fun Traverse 5/V1 FA

9 Dojo Fun 4/V0 FA

10 ?

11 Suay Cave 6a/V3 FA

12 suay king!?

13 dojo seam traverse?

14 dojo roof traverse?

15 ?

16 Doja Cat 5+/V2 FA

17 Doja Direct 5+/V2 FA

18 Dojo Cat 6a/V3 FA

19 ?

20 Kung Fu Coconut 5+/V2 FA

21 Karate Coconut 5+/V2 FA

22 5+/V2 FA

23 5/V1 FA

24 dojo cave!?

25 ?

The Stash Cave

26 ?

27 ?

28 Must Stash 5+/V2 FA

29 Stash Roof 5+/V2 FA

30 Stash Roof Direct 6a/V3 FA

31 ?

32 ?

The Viewpoint Boulder

33 viewpoint traverse?

34 viewpoint face?

35 viewpoint arete?




Boulder Bill - Temple Cave Tonsai

Mikko - Temple Cave

Elan - Temple Cave

Melting Traverse FA - Melting Wall Tonsai

Wat Wat FA? - Wat Bar Tonsai

Suay Cave FA - Krabi

Prickly Pear FA? - North Railay Beach

Rock Bottom FA? - South Railay Beach

Stalactite Tiger Traverse FA - Tiger Wall Railay

Alpha Monkey FA - Wees Wall Railay

Python Traverse FA - Wees Wall Railay

Rockhaus Roof FA - Muay Thai Wall Railay

Muay Thai Roof FA - Muay Thai Wall Railay

Pocketasia Traverse FA - Tonsai-Railay Beach

Tonsai Beach Boulder Arete - South Tonsai Beach













Sunday, October 22, 2023

Ocean Cove



Ocean Cove Campground & Stillwater Cove

New First Ascent (FA) top-rope & sport & trad routes, boulder problems and DWS;

Seafarer Rock
1 Sea Horse 5.11 TR or V3R/X DWS+ FA=RT
2 Sea Horse Direct 5.11+ TR FA=RT
3 The Bends V!? FA=CJ?
4 V0 slab prow south face DWS FA=RT
5 V1 main south face DWS FA=RT
6 5.9? lumpy south west face TR FA=?
7 ? FA=CJ/ED?
8 ? FA=CJ/ED?
9 ?
10 ?
11
12
13
14
15

North Ocean Cove
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25

Central Ocean Cove
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35

South Ocean Cove / Stillwater Cove
36 5.10 TR FA=MN
37 5.11 TR FA=MN
38 Still of the Night V6 cave traverse FA=CS
39 Be Still My Beating Heart V2R MN/TL?
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50


















Saturday, October 14, 2023

The Totem Boulders

Timber Cove

NEWLY DEVELOPING AREA - NO DIRECTIONS/WORD OF MOUTH ONLY 

{This is an ongoing evolving work in progress list of our new first ascents}


New First Ascent (FA) sport routes and boulder problems;

Upper Totem Boulders
1 Totem Crack V1 FA=CS
2 V8 FA=CJ
3 ? slab
4 ? slab arete
5 ? slab traverse
6 ? arete
7 ? back slab traverse
8 ? hidden boulder left
9 ? hidden boulder right
10 ? hidden boulder traverse
11
12
13
14
15

Middle Totem Boulders
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25

Lower Totem Boulders
25 Follow The Fishermen V5 or V7 low pockets bat hang start FA=CJ
26 V3? left side FA=ED? low start rail!?
27 ? low start rail into right finishes!?
28 ? right side?
29 V4? roof crack left FA=CJ/ED? low start!?
30 V4? roof crack direct dyno FA=CJ? low start!?
31 V4? roof crack right FA=CJ/ED? low start!?
32 ? link into cave!?
33 ? cave!?
34 
35 
36
37
38
39
40

Totem Beach Boulders
41 5.10d roof to face FA=JT/KP
42 ? west face FA=KP?
43 ? FA=JT/KP?
44 ? FA=JT/KP? 
45 V3? bulge campus start FA=CJ
46 ? bulge left face?
47 V2? water hole FA=KP?
48 ? mini roof?
49
50
51
52
53
54
55


























Frog Woman Rock 2023 update

Frog Woman Rock - Frog Woman Boulders / Untamed Rocks


New First Ascent (FA) sport routes and boulder problems;

Untamed Rocks
1 Thundercling Traverse 5.10 FA=CS
2 Thundercling 5.11 FA=CS
3 ? 5.12 FA=KW
4 ?
5 ?
6 Emerald Cup Traverse V4 FA=CS
7 Switchblade V4 low start FA=CS
8 Tetrahedral V6 FA=CS
9 Tetrahedron V6 FA=CS
10 ?


Frog Woman Boulders
1 Sticks & Stones V5 low start  FA=CS
2 Quartz Slab Traverse V3 FA=CS
3 Sacred Geometry V5 FA=CS
4 Leifs dyno? V? FA=LE
5 Frogger 5.9 or 5.10 FA=CS
6 Frogman Arete 5.11 FA=CS
7 5.12? direct face?
8 ?
9 ?
10 ?





















Thursday, September 7, 2023

Black Bart Boulders

new probs list:

Black Bart Boulder - left to right;

The Heist V3 FA=GT
The Heist Traverse V5 FA=CS
The Bandit V4 FA=CS
Gentleman Bandit V4 FA=CS
The Bandit Traverse V5 FA=CS
V6/7? FA=SG
V7/8? FA=SG
The Villain V7 FA=GT
The Villain Direct V9 FA=GT
The Thief V4 FA=GT
The Thief Direct V5 FA=GT/CS
The Crook V3 FA=GT
The Crook Direct V4 FA=GT/CS
the crook traverse
the full crook traverse
the full heist traverse
the full bandit traverse
the full thief traverse
the villain traverse
!?












Friday, June 23, 2023

Spring Lake - Bouldering Lessons 2023

Outdoor Climbing / Bouldering Lessons - summer/fall 2023


Outdoor bouldering lesson on the high quality basalt boulders along the west shore of Spring Lake in Santa Rosa CA. The main boulders are located off of the popular Fisherman's Trail just ~1 minute walk from the Boat Dock and the Boat Launch pay parking lot ($7) - or it's free to walk in ~15 minutes from parking at either Howarth Park or from the east side of the lake. 

August & Fall schedules coming soon..

For any questions or to schedule in advance or for private lessons - email:









































Howarth Park (Santa Rosa CA) Obstacle Course & Climbing Wall Camp - Kids or Adult 2023

Howarth Park, Santa Rosa CA - meet at the outdoor climbing wall across from the main parking lot.

Schedule: August & Fall 2023 - to be announced soon..

Costs:
$80 1 hour 1 person private sessions. 
$60 per participant for 1 hour 2 person private sessions. 
$40 per participant for 3-5 person private sessions for 1.5 hours.
$30 per participant based on pre sign-ups (to be announced prior) for group sessions of 6 people minimum or 8 max for 2 hours. 

Sessions start with a brief ~5 minute group introduction and then right into a light dynamic stretch and calisthenic warmup for ~5min then do a mix of climbing/bouldering & agility/obstacle course training for ~40min with a ~10min cool down stretch to finish up.

Put the fun in functional fitness! - challenge yourself, test your strength and agility as well as simply getting a great workout but mainly learn, practice and refine very useful basic movement/life skills. 


For any questions or to schedule in advance or for private sessions - email:



Also check out SPRING LAKE - BOULDERING LESSONS 2023 - outdoor bouldering lesson on the high quality basalt boulders along the west shore of Spring Lake off of the popular Fisherman's Trail just ~1 minute walk from the Boat Dock and the Boat Launch pay parking lot ($7) - or free to walk in ~15 minutes from either Howarth Park or from the northeast side of the lake. 





Howarth Park Climbing Wall Traverse




Howarth Park Climbing Wall - YouTube