Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Bay Area Climbing/Bouldering NEWS 2015/16

Sonoma Coast Crags TITANIUM REBOLT {Sea Crag and Salt Point - Sonoma Coast}
Super THANKS to Jim Thornburg et al.. !! :)

Sugarloaf Ridge Park ~75 new problems/200+ total! {Sugarloaf Ridge - Sonoma County}
In the summer and fall of 2015 in the lush Sonoma Creek Canyon off of Canyon Trail and a few other spots around the beautiful park my friends and I established about 75 new boulder problems VB-V7!
FA's: DW, CS, GR, AC, GZ, OG, RT, LB, A?

"Grand Jury" 5.14a {Sea Crag - Sonoma Coast}
The hardest climb in Sonoma County and one of the hardest in the Bay Area and CA!
FA - TR: MN? / FA - lead: Steven Roth. (Might have been first climbed before 2015?)

"El Sabroso" 5.13c {Salt Point - Sonoma Coast}
Tied with it's neighbor "Jury Duty" and topo-secret "Yoda Direct" for second hardest climb in Sonoma County and one of the hardest in the Bay Area!
FA - TR: MN? / FA - lead: Steven Roth. (Might have been first climbed before 2015?)

"Stigmata" V13 (was V11 - hold broke ~2015) {topo-secret}
Tied with G's 2 other Sonoma County V13's (the neighboring "Adrift" and the Sonoma Coasts hardest problem/test-piece "High Tide Low Tide") for hardest boulder problem(s) in Sonoma County and some of the hardest in the Bay Area! 
FA - original V11: Kevin Jorgeson / FA - new V13: Giovanni "G" Traversi

"High Tide Low Tide" V13 {Salt Point - Sonoma Coast}
Roof to arete/prow bulge face!
FA: Giovanni "G" Traversi

"Biddles Steel" V5 and "Blue Steel" V7 {Biddles - Castle Rock}
The classic test-piece on the main face of Biddles Tower at the new-ish Biddles area. 
FA - V5 stand: Clay Breitweiser / FA: Mike Donovan V7 - sit

"Bushwhacker Roof" V8 and "Bushwhacker Roof Direct" V9 {Indian Joe Caves - Sunol}
Mike D sparks new bouldering stoke at an old Bay Area top rope zone!
FA's: Mike Donovan 

"Aloha Patrol" 5.11 (5.11b start) - zone 3 solo! {Table Rock - Napa County}
FSA (First Solo Ascent): Damon "Nomad" Monjure

The Cascade Boulders {Berkeley - East Bay}
Newly found and established fun little bouldering spot in the rocky and scenic Berkeley hills.
FA's: Garrett "G-Raw" Rawlins


____________________________________________________
*Random Bay Area Climbing/Bouldering NEWS prior to ~2015:

Kimball Canyon, Black Tower, Wappo, Table etc.. {Mt St Helena - Napa County}
Many new climbs at many amazing new and "new-ish" areas with many old/new routes put up all over the Mt St Helena/Table Rock/Palisades area with more potential still up there! ~5.6-5.12+!? 
FA's: Jerry Dodrill, Darren Wiemeyer, Sourigno Outsama, Tim Terry, Dave Stallard, Jim Thornburg, Aaron Rough, ?? etc..

Biddles Boulders + many many more new spots! {Skyline - Castle Rock}
The awesome new Biddles area and many other new bouldering areas discovered and many new classics established in recent years by visionary pioneer Clay Breitweiser in the Castle Rock zone!
FA's: Clay Breitweiser, Mike Donovan, Joe Huras, Gustav Zacharias, Daniel Miller, Gizzard Zenardi, CS, ??

The Bar and "Bat Karma" 5.13a {Mammoth Bar/Auburn Limestone Quarry - Auburn}
New and old lead and TR climbs brought back to life and some new first ascents and more potential at The Bar on the Middle Fork of the American River at Mammoth Bar Park ~5.8-5.12!? At the nearby Auburn Limestone Quarry one of the best lines finally got established, "Bat Karma" 5.13a FA Jim Thornburg is the single most newsworthy hard new first ascent route at The Limestone Quarry.
FA - Quarry: Jim Thornburg / FA - The Bar: CS + ??

KcKee Park Boulders and Three Rocks {Potter Valley - Mendocino County}
Old bouldering area brought back to life with many new classic problems and potential for more! Also some DWS / Deep Water Solo mixed with "shallow water solo" - R rated highballs!
FA's: CS, RT, JA, AC, SR

"Ghost Dance" V11r and Twin Peaks DWS! {Untamed Rocks - Mendocino County}
Highball arete/prow right off the hwy/US101! 
FA - V11r: Giovanni "G" Traversi / FA - DWS: Steven Wheeler (V0/1-V4/5.11+!?) + CS (VB/V0)

"Swallow Crack" 5.10 {Swallow Rock - Mendocino County}
First ascent top rope and lead!
FA: Covelo Crew!?

The Sweet Boulder {topo-secret}
Since the neighboring and amazing Sweet Boulders have been closed :( due to a house being built next to them this fun overlooked old boulder was brought to life by awesome inspired local first ascentionist pioneer Travis Lombardo (author of the classic "Cave Spider" on Dutch Bill Boulder)!
FA's: Travis Lombardo, CS, G, ??

"Pipedream Sit" ~V7/8/9ish!? {topo-secret / near Sugarloaf Ridge}
Long standing low sit local dream project over a drainage pipe alongside a dirt road with a view!
FA: Gustav Zacharias

The Chatterbox and Big Pyramid Boulder and others! {Sugarloaf Ridge - Sonoma County}
Newly discovered boulders at Sugarloaf Ridge bring new life back to the park! The new line "Favors Undertakings" V1/2 up the center dihedral of the Big Pyramid is an instant classic!
FA's: Darren "Splitclimber" Wiemeyer

Lake Berryessa / Pope Valley / Knoxville {Lake, Napa, Yolo Counties}
A lot of new and some old boulder problems have been found and brought to life or brought back to life around the Lake Berryessa / Pope Valley / Knoxville areas.
FA's: CS, SB, ??

The Preserve {topo-secret}
A lot of new schist boulders with many classic new highball boulder problems have been found deep in the private nature preserves in West Sonoma Counties lush redwood forests.
FA's: Zach Anaya, Jason Kevin Moehlman, Ashley Freeman, CS, TL, GT, ??

South Bay Area / Big Sur Bouldering! {Santa Cruz/Monterey/Carmel/Big Sur}
A lot of new and some old bouldering areas have been found and brought to life or brought back to life around the Santa Cruz/Monterey/Carmel/Big Sur areas.
FA's: Sharma, AC, ??



~of course a lot more went down than this recently in the Bay Area climbing scene but it was either at secret/private areas or was not quite as cool, I forgot or I don't care :) I'm not getting paid for this so you get what you get - enjoy! :)




Sunday, February 7, 2016

Ninja Warrior/Buildering/Parkour/Free Running





List of some favorite and popular Ninja Warrior/Buildering/Parkour/Free Running stunts/spots in the Bay Area:
(* = I did it!)

Outdoor/Natural Parkour/Free Running:
"Witches Cat-Leap"*
Jump/cat leap from top of Canyon Trail Boulder to top of Witches Peak Boulder!
{Canyon Trail - Sugarloaf Ridge}

"Sunset Leap-of-Faith"*
Jump/leap from top of Skullcracker Boulder to top of Open Heart and Mind Boulder!
{Sunset Rocks - Goat Rock}

"Squirrelcracker"*
Run-and-jump into wall-run into cat-leap into climb-up ~ start running then push off the small rock in the ground that is the actual "skull cracker" with left foot and then push off main Skullcracker Boulder right foot and grab onto the jug ledge on Rock Scar and climb-up it to finish!
{Sunset Rocks - Goat Rock}

Parkour/Free Running:
"Spring Lake Wall-Run Climb-Up" {Spring Lake - Santa Rosa}*
"SRHS Wall-Run Climb-Up" {SRHS - Santa Rosa}

Dynos:
"Santa Cruz Dude Dyno" V3/4 {Indian Rock - Castle Rock}*
"Naked Lunge" V4 {Nut Tree - Vacaville}*
"C+ Dyno" V6/7 {Indian Rock - Berkeley}
"White Men Can Jump" V7 {Indian Rock - Berkeley}
"Yuji's Dyno" V6 {Mickey's Beach - Stinson Beach}*
"Flying Monkey" V8/9/10!? {Fort Ross - Sonoma Coast}

Buildering:
"I Ching" V3 - jump-off descent! {Downtown Santa Rosa}*
"The Alcove" VB-V5 man-made rock wall - more potential on bike path! {Larkspur Landing}
"Entrada Wall" V0-V3 man-made rock wall - potential for more harder problems! {Entrada Novato}
"Doe Library Traverse" V7 3 rules: no climbing shoes, no chalk, no horizontal holds. {UC Berkeley}



Check out the local Bay Area Ninja Warrior/Parkour/Free Running//Movement Gyms:

Flying Frog Academy

Apex Movement Northern California



Sunday, January 17, 2016

My Top 15 Bouldering First Ascents of 2015

"Vortex" V3r/dws - Potter Valley/Three Rocks
"Sasquatch" V4 - Wildwood/Bridge Gulch
"Piano Man" V7 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Canyon Trail
"Tower Of Power" V7 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Canyon Trail
"Rosacrucian" V4 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Canyon Trail
"The Alchemist" V5 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Canyon Trail
"Illuminaughty" V4 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Canyon Trail
"Pyramid Arete Sit" V4 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Canyon Trail
"Heavens Gate" V3 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Canyon Trail
"Resolution Arete" V3 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Sunrise Rocks
"Sungazer" V6 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Sunrise Rocks
"Solar Wind" V4 - Sugarloaf Ridge/Sunrise Rocks
"Tall Drunk Monkey" V6 - Castle Rock/Sunnyvale Park
"Lager" V5 - The Preserve/Lumberjack Boulder
"Redemption" V4 - Pope Valley/Pope Creek

:)

Friday, January 15, 2016

Testpiece Boulder Problems + Projects at "The Loaf" Sugarloaf Ridge Park

The Top 25 Testpiece Boulder Problems + Projects at The Loaf as of January 2016:
{*= ok *****= world classic}

Testpieces:
"Pipedream Sit" V7/8**** unrepeated - low sit - FA: GZ (Adobe Canyon Boulder - out of park)
"Four Ferns" V7** lowball sit - FA: GZ
"Milky Way Traverse" V7*** unrepeated - lip traverse (not climbable ~ tree fall) - FA: CS
"Tower Of Power" V7*** center sit into left crimp face traverse - FA: CS
"Piano Man" V7**** center sit into right arete slab traverse - FA: CS
"Neptune" V6/7*** left mega sloper arete - FA: RE
"Neptune Direct" V6/7**** direct/right overhang - FA: RT
"Sungazer Sit" V6**** low crimpy sit into fun stand - FA: CS
"White Fang" V6*** low sit overhang - FA: CS
"White Fang Direct" low sit overhang direct - V6*** FA: RT
"All Rise" V6*** direct face / no arete - FA: AC
"Dry Hump" V6** low sit short steep lip mantle - FA: CS
"Trailblazer Traverse" V6** traverse right to left into Trailblazer - FA: CS
"Solar Wind Traverse" V6*** traverse left to right into Solar Wind - FA: CS
"Booger Eater" V6*** low sit up left on back of Booger Boulder - FA: CS
"The Gypsy Traverse" V6** traverse lip up right from The Gypsy - FA: CS
"Hips Don't Lie Sit" V5/6**** high face - FA: GR



Projects!?
Sungazer Boulder East Face - center left or center right!!?? 
Sunrise Rock Direct Main Face - TR or highball!? 
Sunrise Traverse - full traverse uphill / right to left!?
Tower Of Power Direct - straight up between Tower Of Power and Piano Man!?
From Dawn to Dusk - up right side of steep overhang in lower creek above waterfall!? 
Pinball Wizard - wide double arete compression highball in upper creek!?
Black Mirror - sit to Heavens Gate!?
The Student - low sit!?



Monday, January 11, 2016

Top 15 NorCal Limestone Boulder Problems

In California where most of the stone is granite (and granite like monzonite) or sandstone, limestone is very unique. "Climestone" as I like to call it can be very solid and well featured to climb on and also dries very fast. Here are 15 boulder problems, some of which are in my guidebook Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo, that I have either personally climbed or have seen and heard about and highly recommend:

UPDATE to Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo possibly coming in ~2016/17.

Columbia - State Park & College & Labyrinth and Trinity Aretes & Wildwood
{in no particular order - problems I put up or repeated*}
"Triple Cracks" V6 stand V6/7 sit - mega classic FA: Chris Falkenstein - Columbia College *
"All In Due TimeV9 aka "Triple Cracks Traverse" classic FA: Mike Campana - Columbia College
"Mind Over MatterV10 highball! FA: Ben Polanco - Columbia College
"All American Finger CrackV2 stand/sit FA: Dave Yerian - Columbia College
"The Autobahn Traverse" V0 ~50ft! FA: Lance Kimball - Columbia College
"Ultimate TrogdorV8 sit ("Trogdor" V4/5 stand) FA: Ben Polanco? - Columbia College *
"Miners BaneV7 sit V3/4 stand FA: Ben Pope - Columbia Labyrinth *
"The BehemothV5/6 highball! FA: Ben Pope - Columbia Labyrinth
"The MinotaurV5 highball! FA: Phil Bone/Ben Pope? - Columbia Labyrinth
"Aries Curse" V9 direct crack sit ("Aries" V7 all holds) FA: Ben Pope/CS? - Columbia Labyrinth *
"Horse Trail ProwV3 sit V1/2 stand FA: Seth Zaharias/Granite Stanley. - Columbia Park
"Stagecoach Arete" aka "Ghostown Arete" V3 sit V0/1 stand FA: SZ/GS? - Columbia Park *
"Trinity TraverseV3 ~75ft! FA: Chris Summit - Trinity Aretes *
"Natural Bridge TraverseV5 ~75ft! FA: CS? - Wildwood *
"SasquatchV4 low stand V3 stand FA: Chris Summit - Wildwood *    














Friday, January 1, 2016

The Sunrise Rocks - Sugarloaf Ridge Park CA.

Sunrise Rock (Main Rock)
Southwest Face - left to right:
1 VB easy way up down or V0 low start or direct low face/arete!?
2 !? right arete on separate detached block face?
3 "Sunburn" V0 far left arete or direct face/corner V0/1.
4 "Indirect Sunlight" V0/1 far left face or "Direct Sunlight" V1/2 sit?
5 "Synchrodipity" V1/2 stand or V2/3 sit.
6 "Sundial" V2/3/4 or 5.10/5.11 TR corner/face - stand/sit - left or right top out - semi highball/TR!?
7 "?" V0/1 or 5.9/5.10 TR high face just right of #6 and left of #8 - highball/TR!?
8 "?" V0/1 or 5.9/5.10 TR high face/prow - stand start or !? steep sit!? - highball/TR!?
9 "Sunrise Traverse" V2/3/4 stand(s) or V4/5 sit or V6/7? from #14 - traverse left from arete into #3.
10 ? black streak - highball/TR!?
11 ? corner/face - highball/TR!?
12 ? steep bulge - highball/TR!?
13 ? high arete - highball/TR!?
14 "Solar Wind" V1/2 undercling start to #13 arete then traverse far right up into #18 VB/0 arete.
15 "Solar Wind Direct" V4/5 low start on edges and traverse right into #14.
16 "Solar Wind Traverse" V5/6 left start same as #11 traverse right into #15.
17 ? high face?
North Face - left to right:
18 VB/0 high easy arete on backside of main face area up to the top of the main Sunrise Rock.
19 "Stashbox" V1/2/3 left face traverse in corridor.
20 "Matchbox" V4/5 right face in tight corridor - V4/5 sit start matched in far back or V3/4 mid sit into V2/3 arete sit start to V0/1 slab stand start.
Short Man Boulder
21 "Short Man Complex" V2/3/4? low direct sit or V1/2 lip traverse left sit or right traverse - short boulder opposite #14-16.
Dawn Boulder
Southwest Face - left to right:
22 "Dawn Face"? V1/2/3? center/left direct face!?
23 "Free Dawn Wall Memorial Boulder Problem" V1/2? face/right hand arete over creek!
24 "New Dawn Arete" V2 start #23 then traverse up right around arete over creek into #25 top out.
Southeast Face:
25 "The Student" V5/6 mid sit or V6/7!? low sit or V1/2 stand - downclimb V0 right.
Mini Traverse Boulder
26 "Mini Traverse" VB/0 short low quality kids type traverse - next to trail uphill from #25.
Sungazer Boulder
Southwest Face - right to left:
27 "Sungazer Traverse" V1 right to left from #28 into #33.
28 "Heliacal" V1 face left of arete and tree.
29 "Empyreal" V0 center/left face sit or traverse.
30 VB/0 easy bulge face direct into #31 top out.
31 VB easy main groove - fun up/down-climb.
32 VB/0 short left bulge face.
33 "Sunnyside Up" V0 low sit up bulge next to down-climb.
Southeast Face - left to right:
34 "Resolution Arete" V2/3 high face/arete right of tree!
35 ? bulge/face!?
36 ? bulge/face direct!?
37 "Sungazer" V6 sit V2/3 stand!
38 ? low bulge face traverse from low left sit into #34!? or same low sit right into #37!?
39 "Direct Sungazer" V2/3 stand start edges right of #37 (jug on #40 to right is off) or V4/5 sit!?
40 V1 low sit start short jug chunks on far right - VB/0 stand start.
Sunlight Boulder
Southwest Face - left to right:
41 "?" V2/3/4? far left compression sit? or V0 stand.
42 VB very easy left face.
43 "Sunlight" VB fun easy center face.
44 "Sunray" V1 stand start center/right bulge face - or V1/2 sit?
45 "Sunnyside Arete" V1/2 sit start right face/arete - or V0/1 stand.
46 "Sun Glare Arete" V2/3 far right short left hand arete sit - top out or traverse off right.
47 "Solar Flare" V3/4 far right face direct (no arete) sit - top out direct or traverse off right.
48 "Sunshine Traverse"? V3/4/5? full traverse - start #41 traverse right into #46/47 finish!?
49 ?
Dwarf Star Boulder
South Face - left to right:
50 "Dwarf Star" V3 low sit start in center of steep face up over left lip arete!
51 "Dwarf Mantle" V1/2 right side mid sit on good holds to tough mantle.
49 "Dwarf Mantle Traverse" V2/3 sit start on left arete and traverse right into #51 hard mantle.
52 "Dwarf Star Traverse" V1 start #51 and reverse traverse left into #50 fun top out.
53 "Dwarf Star Mantle" V3/4 link #50 sit into #51 mantle finish?
54 V? low sit center same as #50 then right direct into #51!?
55 !?